(This is excerpted from my original review, which appeared in the Florida Times-Union.)
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| Columbian, Mexican, Cuban all under one roof. GOAL! |
I love a good
“mom and pop” restaurant, someplace you feel welcome, regardless of whether you
speak the language or hail from the same part of the globe. One that makes my
list of favorites is El Ranchito.
Cue the collective gasp from regulars who would prefer their favorite spot to remain
their little secret.
Located on Beach
Boulevard in Pablo Station near the northwest corner of Beach and San Pablo, El Ranchito hums with a Latin vibe.
Columbian,
Cuban and Mexican standards are all represented, and the crowd is as
diverse as the menu. One day it is a bright, quiet spot to grab lunch or dinner,
the next it’s filled with cheering fútbol fans, jostling
for space with a stream of regulars,
including more than a few in-the-know foodies. The space is small and neat,
with minimal décor, indoor and outdoor seating. Banners advertising the World Cup festoon the small counter area.
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| Sopa de Costilla de Res |
El Ranchito’s
“mom and pop” for just over four years now are Ana and Jorge Argueta. She’s Columbian, he’s Guatamalan. Son Kenny and daughter
Christina work with them, greeting customers as friends old and new, waiting
and bussing tables. Kenny is quick to point out their Facebook page, and
recommends checking it out for the specials.
On
a recent visit, I particularly enjoyed the special Sopa de Costilla de Res ($4.99). Meaty chunks of beef short
rib, tender and falling off the bone, nestled in with potatoes, carrots and
cilantro in a flavorful broth which gets its reddish hue from achiote. This
simple, yet satisfying Columbian dish is the epitome of comfort food. Here it is
often available on Wednesdays and Saturdays.
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| Empanadas Cubana |
My
dining companion and I shared crispy, warm Empanadas
Cubana ($3.50), two fried flour turnovers amply filled with ground beef and
Cuban spices.
In contrast, Empanadas
Columbiana (6 for $4.99,
12 for $9.99) feature a slightly sweet cornmeal shell and Columbian spiced beef.
Meat lovers and
big eaters in general will embrace the combination of sirloin steak, pork
sausage, chicharrones (pork rind), plantains, corn cake, white rice, beans, and
avocado salad that make up Colombia’s national dish, Bandeja Paisa ($12.99). It’s a lot of food. Plan to share, or take
home leftovers.
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| Tacos de Carne Asada |
Tacos de Carne Asada ($9.99) hit all the right notes –
perfectly seasoned chopped beefsteak, onion and cilantro are served on steamed
corn tortillas, with a wedge of lime. This simple, authentic dish shares billing
as “Traditional Mexican” with more American inventions such as the Chimichanga
(9.99) and Fajitas (11.99-12.99).
The Cuban classics
are here –succulent Lechon Asado ($7.99
lunch / $8.99 dinner) is fresh-roasted pork, seasoned with a slightly tart,
garlicy mojo; and Ropa Vieja (8.99
lunch / $11.99 dinner), shredded flank steak prepared in a savory sauce of
tomato, pepper, onion and garlic. Another Cuban standout is Arroz Con Pollo ($10.99), tender chunks
of chicken cooked with yellow rice.
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| Camarones Al Ajillo |
Camarones Al
Ajillo ($14.99)
are sweet, tender shrimp sautéed in toasted garlic oil, served with plantain,
rice, beans and salad. The crispy little bits of garlic in the oil are what transform
this simple sautéed shrimp dish. I sopped up every last bit with the yellow rice.
Soupy
Columbian red beans were soft and silky, and not over-salted. Alternate choices
are white rice and equally delicious Cuban black beans, and your choice of
savory or sweet plantains.
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| Tres Leches |
Desserts
are made in house by Ana, and the Tres
Leches ($4.00) is one of the best I’ve tasted. Suitably dense, moist vanilla
cake soaks in the sweetened milks and whipped cream as you eat it. Overall it
is light and fresh, not too heavy, and not cloyingly sweet as it can sometimes
be.
El
Ranchito serves beer and wine, coffee, tea, juices, soft drinks (including
Columbian, Mexican and Cuban favorites) and Horchata, a traditional Mexican
drink made with rice and cinnamon.
Give me a clean,
locally owned, one of a kind place with simple food made from scratch and
reasonably priced, and I’ll return again and again. I’ll be returning to El
Ranchito.
El Ranchito
www.facebook.com/elranchitojax
Hours:
Mon-Thu 11:30-8
Closed Tuesday
Fri 11:30-9
Sat 12-9
Sun 12-8
Price
range: $4-18
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